He stole that from us :-)

Boulder WC #1's - Jerome Meyer, "train without thumbs"

In this La Sportiva interview the dynamic Jerome Meyer, who won the Boulder WC 01, 03 and 06, revails the secret traing tip. "Train without thumbs...all your muscles and body tension will work more...this is how I prepared for the European Championship two years ago" which he also won.

Hmmm sounds familiar...